On a radiant, sunlit afternoon amidst the recent summer in Antarctica, the Seabourn Pursuit cruise liner collided with a vast expanse of sea ice in the pristine Hanusse Bay. The vessel advanced steadily, the ice shattering beneath its prow, until it was firmly lodged hundreds of meters into the icy waters. The 250 voyagers aboard the Pursuit gathered on their balconies and peered over the ship's railings to witness the spectacle. However, there was no frantic dash for the lifeboats. Instead, the passengers descended to the gangplank and began disembarking to explore the icy terrain. This encounter was not a mishap but a deliberate adventure, replete with a table adorned with flutes of champagne to celebrate their Antarctic arrival. Among those strolling on the ice floe were Greg and Susana McCurdy, retired Las Vegas law enforcement officers. Susana, now a part-time travel consultant, and her husband are spending their golden years visiting as many exotic destinations as possible. After securing their champagne, the McCurdys unfurled a small banner proclaiming “7th Continent Antarctica 2024,” and posed for a commemorative photograph. With this journey, they became part of an exclusive group who have set foot on every continent. Susana noted a shift among her clientele recently: “They seek more genuine, more bucket-list destinations, particularly post-Covid. They’re no longer waiting… And Antarctica is high on everyone’s wish list.”

The surge in Antarctic travel predates the post-Covid travel resurgence. The International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators (IAATO) has monitored tourist visits to the southernmost continent since the early 1990s. At that time, approximately 7,000 individuals journeyed there annually. The numbers have dramatically escalated in the past five years or so. In the winter of 2017, nearly 44,000 tourists ventured to Antarctica. This year, that figure surpassed 122,000 visitors. The influx is due to Antarctic travel becoming more accessible and luxurious than ever. A couple of decades ago, Antarctic expeditions involved smaller vessels, many of which were former “icebreakers” from Russia, Canada, and other polar regions. It was far from a lavish experience. Robin West, Seabourn’s VP and general manager of expeditions, recalls his first visit in 2002, noting that many boats were equipped with bunk beds and communal bathrooms. “You’d write your name on a board each night for spaghetti or lasagna,” he said. Few ships even boasted windows for external views. Today’s experience is markedly different. Colleen McDaniel, editor-in-chief of Cruise Critic, credits Lindblad and National Geographic cruise lines for making Antarctic travel more accessible to a broader audience about a decade ago. “They were pioneers in offering the Antarctica experience to a more conventional traveler. However, those initial voyages were less luxurious than what we see today,” McDaniel stated. “Recently, Ponant, Silversea, Seabourn, and Scenic have made significant strides in providing top-tier luxury experiences, offering opulent onboard suites, exquisite dining, and even spas. Cruise lines like Quark cater to adventure-seekers with offerings such as cross-country skiing and camping.”

The escalating tourism figures have prompted some experts to express concern about the environmental consequences of the visitor surge. A 2022 study published in the journal Nature revealed that Antarctic snow is melting more rapidly due to tourist visits. The black soot emitted from cruise ship funnels settles on the ice, attracting sunlight and causing substantial snow to melt prematurely. Ecologists also warn that the increasing human presence in Antarctica is leading to a spike in carbon dioxide levels in an area unaccustomed to such emissions. Cruise ship operators assert that they are acutely aware of their environmental footprint. Passengers are given comprehensive instructions on not bringing any external food or contaminants for Antarctic landings. They are advised against lying down in the snow and maintaining a safe distance from wildlife to prevent the spread of human-borne bacteria and viruses. The nations conducting tourism and research in Antarctica have signed the Antarctic Treaty, which stipulates that no permanent structures for tourist use should be constructed in the region. In other words, there are no hotels in Antarctica. Recently, IAATO started monitoring fuel consumption by cruise ships in the Antarctic region, and some operators are now utilizing electric propulsion when possible to reduce soot and CO2 emissions. Concurrently, cruise lines have invested billions of dollars in recent years in the construction of luxury expedition vessels. Both the Seabourn Pursuit and its sister ship, the Venture, boast a lavish spa, nine eateries, and eight lounges and bars for the approximately 250 passengers on board. Each of the 132 cabins features large glass doors and a balcony, allowing travelers to effortlessly step outside as the majestic icebergs drift by. For an additional fee, passengers can reserve a spot in one of the onboard submarines or explore the Antarctic waters in a kayak. Passengers need not fret about the freezing temperatures as they are provided with specially designed cold-weather attire guaranteed to keep them warm and dry as they mingle with penguins and seals.

Recently, a novel category of Antarctic travel has emerged. Operators such as Celebrity, Norwegian, and Princess now offer “cruise-only” visits, allowing passengers to view Antarctica without actually setting foot on the pristine and delicate tundra. These visits often involve larger vessels and are typically more cost-effective. IAATO reports that in 2017, around 7,000 passengers visited Antarctica on a “cruise-only” journey. This past season, that number exceeded 43,000, marking an increase of over 500%. “These mainstream lines offer a more budget-conscious way to travel to the region – even if you’re not actually disembarking in Antarctica,” Cruise Critic’s McDaniel commented. “And while you won’t be able to observe penguins or seals as closely as you would with a landing, you’ll still spot them. You might also encounter whales and a variety of bird species.” Whether aboard one of the opulent new luxury vessels or experiencing a cruise-only adventure, a journey to Antarctica is an opportunity to witness another world – from the majestic beauty of the icebergs and glaciers to the playful antics of the penguins – and it has never been more convenient to embark on such a voyage.