Nima Rinji Sherpa's ears still carry the dark hue of windburn, a testament to his daring ascents to altitudes where oxygen is scarce and weather can turn treacherous in a heartbeat. This month, the 18-year-old Nepalese mountaineer etched his name in history as the youngest individual to conquer all 14 of the world's loftiest summits. Yet, Nima is not one to rest on his laurels; he is already gearing up for his next monumental challenge. In a recent video call from Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal, Nima revealed that after a brief respite, he will prepare to scale Manaslu, the world's eighth-highest peak, alongside Italian climber Simone Moro—during the winter, in true alpine style. "It entails climbing an 8,000-meter peak in the depths of winter... devoid of fixed ropes, supplemental oxygen, and support. It's a true test of human endurance," Nima explained. "Such a feat has never been accomplished in the annals of mountaineering." He jested that after this, he would indeed take some well-deserved rest.

On October 9th, Nima, along with his companion Pasang Nurbu Sherpa, stood atop the 8,027-meter Shishapangma, marking the culmination of his quest to summit the "eight-thousanders"—the 14 peaks acknowledged by the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation for their towering heights above 8,000 meters sea level. Nima described the moment of reaching the summit as "sheer elation," attributing his drive to his family's legacy of renowned mountaineers. His father, Tashi Lakpa Sherpa, has summited Everest nine times and, at the age of 19, became the youngest to do so without bottled oxygen. His uncle Mingma Sherpa was the first South Asian to conquer all 14 peaks in 2011. "My uncles and father are far more accomplished than I could ever hope to be, for they hailed from a humble village. For them, dreaming of such success was a daunting task," Nima reflected. "I possess privileges they lacked."

Nepal's Sherpa community has dwelled in the high-altitude Himalayas for generations, serving as indispensable guides and porters for foreign climbers. Their expertise has been crucial for those venturing into the treacherous terrain. The term "Sherpa" has become synonymous with mountaineering, with these individuals often forming the core of international climbing expeditions, carrying heavy equipment and leading climbers to high-altitude summits under perilous conditions. However, they seldom receive the recognition or financial rewards that their Western counterparts enjoy.

Despite his record-breaking achievement, Nima did not attract high-profile sponsorships and relied on his father's 14 Peaks Expedition company for financial backing and logistical support. "People often speak of Sherpas as superhuman, but how many Sherpas do we see as the face of a brand or sponsored athletes? None," Nima remarked. He aspires to inspire younger Sherpa climbers to recognize their potential as athletes and professional mountaineers, rather than being seen merely as support staff. "I hope to become the face of a major brand. Then, the younger generation of Sherpas will not view this as a dead-end job, a risky one. They will see it as an athletic accomplishment as well," he said, hoping his achievements will "pave the way" for other Nepali climbers. "There are moments in life when you feel the community is more significant than oneself, and that's what I aim for, that's what I hope for," Nima expressed.

Nima embarked on his extraordinary journey in September 2022, climbing Nepal's 8,163-meter Manaslu as his first conquest. Over the subsequent two years, he scaled all of the "eight-thousanders," including the world's tallest peak, Everest at 8,849 meters, and the notoriously perilous K2 at 8,611 meters. He summited Everest and Lhotse, standing at 8,516 meters, on the same day—just 10 hours apart—and ascended five of the peaks in under five weeks. "When I climbed Everest, it was night, so there was no view. We had to climb the next mountain quickly. I took some photos... but in my mind, I was already thinking about the next peak to conquer," he recounted. His favorite ascent was Annapurna, at 8,091 meters, which he climbed without bottled oxygen. "For a 17-year-old to accomplish such a feat without oxygen, it's not usually recommended," he chuckled. "Annapurna was where I felt incredibly strong... It was truly one of the best, my most beautiful mountain." He mentioned that the final 200 meters were the most challenging, "because I was enduring 20 hours without oxygen in my brain." "Until then, I felt unstoppable, walking faster than everyone else," he said. However, Nima acknowledged that the mountains "always find a way to keep you humble." "Regardless of the mountains' beauty or the summit's success, it's always a dangerous sport," he stated. Nima and his climbing partner Pasang were caught "in a couple of avalanches" on Annapurna. He injured his arm before climbing Shishapangma and suffered from cramps due to inadequate water intake. While ascending the last 700 meters of Nanga Parbat, 8,126 meters, without fixed ropes, Nima slipped on an icy rock. "My first word was my climbing partner's name. I knew he would somehow save me, so I called out to him," Nima said. "We were connected on the same rope. When I fell, he fell too, but he threw an ice ax, and we stopped together."

Spending extended periods above 8,000 meters—dubbed the "death zone"—triggers the body to shut down as the thin air deprives the brain and lungs of oxygen, potentially leading to the fatal condition of hypoxia. Nima described life above 8,000 meters as "a test of who can endure the most suffering given the circumstances." When temperatures plummet below minus 16 degrees Celsius and winds gust at 100 kilometers per hour, Nima explained that it's when a climber's physical prowess ceases, and their mental fortitude takes over. "Perhaps I enjoy suffering," he jested. Nepal is at the forefront of the climate crisis, with rising temperatures rapidly melting Himalayan glaciers and exacerbating devastating floods, affecting millions. The increase in tourism to Nepal brings much-needed revenue but also tons of waste that threatens the fragile mountain ecosystem. Nima hopes his generation can leave a more sustainable legacy for future generations. "You can see many problems... Hopefully, my generation, along with others, will try to mobilize this industry and make it more sustainable for those to come," he said. His dream is to establish an organization to fund training and technical facilities to assist young Nepalis in safely entering climbing and guiding as a profession. This year, Nepali climbers have shattered numerous records in the Himalayas. Dawa Yangzum Sherpa became the youngest Nepalese woman to scale the 14 peaks. Mingma G Sherpa became the first Nepali climber to summit all 14 without bottled oxygen. And Phunjo Jhangmu Lama climbed Everest in a record-breaking 14.5 hours. Nima dreams of Nepali climbers receiving the same recognition as professional Western climbers and is already witnessing the younger generation making strides in this direction. "The generation before us, they were the pioneers; we're climbing the routes they established," he said. "But I'm thrilled to be living in this moment, with so much happening in the world of mountaineering. As the younger generation, we will always strive to do better."